Trail of Hope

Yesterday we spent most of the day continuing to clear debris from the church we had been working on. The whole group worked well together and we got a lot done. Today the church is now a big pile of dirt.

Last night a group of a dozen or so young adults from Oklahoma City departed Joplin. I really enjoyed their company during there stay. It was such a pleasure being surrounded by such a wonderful group of very polite and pleasant people. I hope they had a safe journey back home.

Yesterday I also had the opportunity to ride on the back of a Harley Davidson from the church where we are staying at to the church we were preparing for demolition. We rode without helmets even though it is illegal in that state. The guy driving it is a real great guy and it was a pretty cool experience for me.

Despite the time for me to continue on the Trail is looming near, I don’t want to think about it. Even though I will have only spent 8 days in Joplin, I know it is going to be very hard to leave when the time comes. There are so many people that still need help and it is important to me to contribute as much as I can. So I’m focusing on the present and not worrying about the near future.

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Everyday in Joplin there are some volunteers who head back to their respective states and new groups of volunteers coming in. Yesterday we finished clearing out a very damaged church for demolition today.

My typical day looks something like this. At around 7:15am we have breakfast and leave the church we’re staying in at around 8am. Then we head out into the field. As I mentioned in previous posts, we have around 50 volunteers a day. We are usually spit into about four or five teams. Each team is assigned a certain task or job to do for the day.

Around noontime lunch is served. We usually go under a big tent or find some shade by a standing tree and enjoy our lunch. The afternoon is variable. Some people stay as long as they can until the work for the day is over. Others find they have to return to the church we’re staying at because they feel ill due to the excessive heat.

Those who are able to continue working finish up lunch and continue the labor until about 4 or 5pm. At around 5:30pm we gather for dinner. After dinner it depends on what people want to do. Some people gather together to talk. Others turn in early to get plenty of rest for the day ahead. Basically anything after dinner is our free time.

I then turn in at my little quarters with 10 other men and fall asleep before getting up the next morning to do it all again. I’m still enjoying every minute of it.

Today a crane came and it is breaking down the church we’ve been clearing out. Once the debris is cleared away, the area will be a vacant lot, ready for rebirth and new hope.

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Yesterday we had a group of 50 volunteers from all over the United States working together to clear out a church in Joplin. It was great. We had to take out everything that was of value within the church and salvage anything that could be used again. We saved pieces of metal, several doors, and other items of interest, per request of the pastor. The roof had been partially torn off so the damage was immense. Tomorrow a crane will come and begin to demolish the structure, leaving a vacant lot and some memories behind.

There are a lot of things going on, not just at the church but all around Joplin. I think other churches that are still standing are hosting volunteers for the relief efforts. Yesterday a few more people came to the church I am staying at. They plan to be working for a week as well. So every day new hope arrives with the intention of being spread about the area.

In my quarters in the church there are 10 guys. Everyone snores in the night, myself included, so it’s well, interesting in the evening. It is great being surrounded by and spending time with so many different people from different walks of life. When we have a little free time, we spend it talking and getting to know one another.

All I can really say is what I’ve been saying. It is great to be here and I continue to feel immensely humbled and privileged at the same time.

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Yesterday was my first full day helping out in Joplin. The temperature was a little bit over 100 again but I didn’t mind the heat. A group of us were working on demolishing a house. It felt so good to get out there, work, and get my hands a little dirty in the company of some great people. Despite the heat, the spirit of the group was high and everyone worked really well together.

In the afternoon we had a few trucks come in with a variety of donations from around the country. We had to unload the trucks by hand. During it all, I was very happy to be among such a great group of people. There are around 50 volunteers of different ages and from different states. Some people are older and some are young. Everyone is really committed to help and they all seem to really feel the pain of the Joplin community.

Yesterday I missed a great photo opportunity. I was standing near a partially destructed home. On the second floor there was a partial balcony left in tact after the storm. An old lady was watering a little shrub in a flower pot on the piece of balcony. Everything around her was debris and destruction yet she was water the little shrub. It was like witnessing a great hope. Despite the fact that this woman was going through a difficult time, she still cared enough and had enough hope to water that plant and restore some life around the area. It was a great moment.

Today we’ve been working on demolishing a two story brick church and we’re working inside. Once again I am just so grateful to be here that I’m overwhelmed.

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The day before yesterday, I arrived to my motel in the early evening. I was incredibly tired so I decided to take a brief nap to refresh for a bit. Well, that nap lasted two hours! When I woke up, it was time to go to bed for the night but I couldn’t fall asleep. I tossed and turned. By 11pm, I gave up on sleeping and decided I’d rather start walking.

I had to walk 38 miles to reach Joplin, Missouri and the temperature was expected to be around 102 degrees. This would be the furthest distance I have walked since starting the Trail. I packed up my things, checked out of the motel, grabbed my flashlight, and started walking towards Joplin. Walking through the dead of night was quite wonderful. The temperature hovered around 75 degrees so it was plenty cool.

After walking nearly 15 hours straight, I arrived in Joplin in the early afternoon. I checked into my living section in the little church I will be staying at for the week. I was given a nice bunk bed to sleep on. There were about 10 people staying in the church with me. The provisions were wonderful even though the inside of the church was a little warm from the high temperatures.

Last evening one of the volunteers drove me around the devastating area. I was really moved as I surveyed the catastrophic damage left behind from this thing which came from the sky. Words can’t really describe what I witnessed.

Once again I’m just incredibly glad that something deep inside of me told me to come to Joplin. The people working in the area are great and have high spirits. It is a privilege to be a part of a group of people working together to try to restore a little bit of hope.

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Joplin is a city in southern Jasper County and northern Newton County in the southwestern corner of the US state of Missouri. 

Although often believed to have been named for the ragtime composer Scott Joplin, who lived in Sedalia, Missouri, Joplin is named for Reverend Harris Joplin, an early settler and the founder of the area’s first Methodist congregation.

 Joplin was established in 1873 and expanded significantly from the wealth created by the mining of zinc; its growth faltered after World War II when the price of the mineral collapsed. 

The city gained travelers as Route 66 passed through it; “Joplin, Missouri” is among the lyrics to Bobby Troup’s legendary song, immortalizing the city among others on the famous highway.

While Joplin was first settled for lead mining, zinc, often referred to as “jack”, was the mineral resource on which the town built its economy. As railroads connected Joplin to major markets in other cities, it was on the verge of dramatic growth. 

By the turn of the century, the city was becoming a regional metropolis. Construction centered around Main Street, with many bars, hotels, and fine homes nearby. Joplin’s three-story “House of Lords” was its most famous saloon, with a bar and restaurant on the first floor, gambling on the second, and a brothel on the third.

 Trolley and rail lines made Joplin the hub of southwest Missouri and, as the center of the “Tri-state district”, it soon became the lead and zinc mining capital of the world.

In 1933 during the Great Depression, the notorious criminals Bonnie and Clyde spent some weeks in Joplin, where they robbed several area businesses. Tipped off by a neighbor, the Joplin Police Department attempted to apprehend the pair. Bonnie and Clyde escaped after killing Newton County Constable John Wesley Harryman and Joplin Police Detective Harry McGinnis; however, they were forced to leave most of their possessions behind.

After World War II, most of the mines were closed, and population growth leveled off. The main road through Joplin running east and west was designated as part of US Route 66, which became famous as more Americans took to newly constructed highways. The roads provided improved access between cities but also drew off population to newer housing and eventually retail centers.

In the 1960s and 1970s, nearly 40 acres (16 hectares) of the city’s downtown were razed in an attempt at urban renewal, as population and businesses had moved to a suburban fringe along newly constructed highways. 

The Connor and Keystone hotels were notable historic structures that were demolished, as was the Liberty Building. Christman’s Department Store stands but is abandoned, as is the Joplin Union Depot, since railroad restructuring and the decline in passenger traffic led to its closure.

 Other notable historic structures in Joplin include the Carnegie Library, Fred and Red’s Diner, the House of Lords, the Frisco Depot, the Scottish Rite Cathedral, and the Crystal Cave (filled in and used for a parking lots).

On May 6, 1971, Joplin was struck by a severe tornado, resulting in one death and 50 injuries, along with major damage to many houses and businesses.

On May 22, 2011, an EF-5 tornado first touched down near the western edge of the city among large, newer homes, at about 5:41 pm CDT and tracked eastward across the city and across Interstate 44 into rural portions of Newton and Lawrence counties.

 It was reported to have been about 0.75 miles (1.21 km) in width and 22.1 miles (35.6 km) long. About 8,000 houses, 18,000 cars, and 450 businesses were flattened or blown away in Joplin, particularly in the section between 13th and 32nd Streets across the southern part of the city. 
The tornado narrowly missed the downtown area.

  Total of 158 people died from tornado-related injuries as of the end of June, 2011. 

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Yesterday I had the opportunity to walk through what used to exist as Delaware Town. Once again, there were no markings or historical signs, documenting the existence of Lenape in the area. The only thing I could find was a sign that read “Delaware Town Access Road.” That was it.

About five or so years ago, one of the local universities did an academic archeological dig in the area. The teams found many Lenape artifacts buried under the land. Simply knowing this town once existed can be enough, but at times I wish there were some sort of a historical maker present in these villages. That way, future generations will know that the Lenape once inhabited in the area.

During my walk, I had the opportunity to talk with some people I met around the area. The most “intriguing” person was a guy who claimed his family lived in the area since the Civil War period. He was incredibly certain about this and he tried to convince me that Delaware Town had nothing to do with the Lenape Indians. I found this amusing and had to give him a brief history lesson.

After this entertaining exchange, I ventured over to the Wilson’s Creek Battlefield. Wilson’s Creek was the first major Civil War battle fought west of the Mississippi River and the scene of the death of Nathaniel Lyon, the first Union general killed in combat.

It was a full day of places to see Today I’m headed towards Mount Vernon. Tomorrow I will start walking very early and arrive in Joplin to start my week of service in the evening.

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The Battle of Wilson’s Creek

The Battle of Wilson’s Creek (called Oak Hills by the Southerners) was fought ten miles southwest of Springfield, Missouri on August 10, 1861. Named for the stream that crosses the area where the battle took place, it was a bitter struggle between Union and Southern forces for control of Missouri in the first year of the Civil War.

Border State Politics

When the Civil War began in 1861, Missouri’s allegiance was of vital concern to the federal government. The state’s strategic position on the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers and its abundant manpower and natural resources made it imperative that she remain loyal to the Union. Most Missourians desired neutrality, but many, including the governor, Claiborne Fox Jackson, held strong Southern sympathies and planned to cooperate with the Confederacy in its bid for independence.

When President Lincoln called for troops to put down the rebellion, Missouri was asked to supply four regiments. Governor Jackson refused the request and ordered State military units to muster at Camp Jackson outside Saint Louis and prepare to seize the U.S. arsenal in that city. They had not, however, counted on the resourcefulness of the arsenal’s commander, Captain Nathaniel Lyon.

Learning of the governor’s intentions, Lyon had most of the weapons moved secretly to Illinois. On May 10 he marched 7,000 men out to Camp Jackson and forced its surrender. In June, after a futile meeting with Governor Jackson to resolve their differences, Lyon (now a brigadier general) led an army up the Missouri River and captured the state capital at Jefferson City. After an unsuccessful stand at Boonville a few miles upstream, Governor Jackson retreated to southwest Missouri with elements of the State Guard.

The Battle

Despite inferior numbers, Lyon decided to attack the enemy encampment. Leaving about 1,000 men behind to guard his supplies, the Federal commander led 5,400 soldiers out of Springfield on the night of August 9. Lyon’s plan called for 1,200 men under Colonel Franz Sigel to swing wide to the south, flanking the Southern right, while the main body of troops struck from the north. Success hinged on the element of surprise.

Ironically, the Southern leaders also planned a surprise attack on the Federals, but rain on the night of the 9th caused McCulloch (who was now in overall command) to cancel the operation. On the morning of the 10th, Lyon’s attack caught the Southerners off guard, driving them back. Forging rapidly ahead, the Federals occupied the crest of a ridge subsequently called “Bloody Hill.” Nearby, the Pulaski Arkansas Battery opened fire, checking the advance. This gave Price’s infantry time to form a battle line on the hill’s south slope.

For more than five hours the battle raged on Bloody Hill. Fighting was often at close quarters, and the tide turned with each charge and countercharge. Sigel’s flanking maneuver, initially successful, collapsed altogether when McCulloch’s men counterattacked at the Sharp Farm. Defeated, Sigel and his troops fled.

On Bloody Hill, at about 9:30 a.m., General Lyon, who had been wounded twice already, was killed while positioning his troops. Major Samuel Sturgis assumed command of the Federal forces and by 11 a.m., with ammunition nearly exhausted, ordered a withdrawal to Springfield. The Battle of Wilson’s Creek was over. Losses were heavy and about equal on both sides–1,317 for the Federals, 1,222 for the Southerners. Though victorious on the field, the Southerners were not able to pursue the Union forces. Lyon lost the battle and his life, but he achieved his goal: Missouri remained under Union control.

The Civil War in Missouri

The Battle of Wilson’s Creek marked the beginning of the Civil War in Missouri. For the next three and a half years, the state was the scene of savage and fierce fighting, mostly guerrilla warfare, with small bands of mounted raiders destroying anything military or civilian that could aid the enemy. By the time the conflict ended in the spring of 1865, Missouri had witnessed so many battles and skirmishes that it ranks as the third most fought-over state in the nation.

The Confederates made only two large-scale attempts to break the Federal hold on Missouri, both of them directed by Sterling Price. Shortly after Wilson’s Creek, Price led his Missouri State Guard north and captured the Union garrison at Lexington. He and his troops remained in the state until early 1862, when a Federal army drove them into Arkansas. The subsequent Union victory at the Battle of Pea Ridge in March kept large numbers of Confederate military forces out of Missouri for more than two years.

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For the past two months I’ve been walking through dangerous areas where tornados occur on a daily basis. Fortunately I have not been in the path of such destruction but the frequency of these whirlwind natural disasters has increased dramatically this year. No one was expecting to experience the pure wrath and destruction of the many tornadoes which tore through the areas.

On May 22^nd, an EF-5 tornado leveled the city of Joplin, Missouri. At least 158 lives were lost and over 900 injuries were reported. The tornado destroyed over 8,000 homes, 18,000 cars, St. John’s Medical Center as well as several schools. Despite the fact Joplin is situated in the well known “Tornado Ally” no one expected such a massive tornado to destroy the city.

I remember watching the news and witnessing the video footage and pictures of the devastation. With each saddening image I couldn’t believe that something produced from the sky could cause such destruction. About two weeks ago I was looking over my map of the Trail and noticed that Joplin was just a short walk off of the Trail of Hope. At that moment, my heart told me that Joplin was a place that needed to be included in the Trail in a very special way.

I called my good buddy John and he was able to make some arrangements in Joplin for me. Yesterday I made an official connection with one of the local churches. They will house me as I assist with the clean up process in the city. I will arrive in Joplin on Sunday evening and will stay there and help the community for 8 days.

I feel I will be able to lend a hand in a small way to restore hope within that community. I’m looking forward to being a part of something which builds hope and assists recovery. It will be an honor to include Joplin within the Trail of Hope.

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DELAWARE TOWN –  fifteen miles southwest of Springfield, Missouri.

The Lenape-Delaware Presence in Southwest Missouri ca.1820-ca.1830.

From 1820 to 1830, when the first white settlers came into the region that now comprises Christian County, the only settlement of any consequence in the entire area that is now southwest Missouri was Delaware Town. 
It consisted of the James Fork Trading Post (named so because it was situated on the James Fork of the White River), several homes, a warehouse, a building where cheese was made (all these structures were made of logs), several hen houses and corn cribs, the many lodges of the Delaware Indians who resided in the village of the principal chief of the tribe, Captain William Anderson, and a large horse-racing track where the Delawares raced their mounts and wagered on the outcome.

This was all situated on the main trail through the area at the time, the Delaware Trail, which later became known as the White River Trace. The trail forded the James River upriver from the present-day Highway 14 bridge, one of the   first two bridges in the county was installed at the site in the late 1880s. That wooden structure was replaced by a metal truss bridge in 1904, but6 has since been removed entirely. No access to the river is now available at the site, but a nearby graveyard is named the Delaware Cemetery. 

…by 1818, the advancing tide of settlers forced them to sign another treaty which would locate them on new lands in what is now Christian County. 
In return the US government agreed to pay the tribe an annual annuity in silver totaling $4000, give them 120 horses, and provide them with   a government-employed blacksmith. 
Thirteen hundred and forty-six Delawares and their fourteen hundred horses were ferried across the Mississippi River in the summer of 1820 to take up residence on the new lands, which had been chosen for them by General William Clark of Lewis & Clark fame.

Other villages strung out along the banks of the James River were those of Captain Ketchum (Whose Lenape name was Tah-whee-lalen), Capt. Pipe (who was of the wolf clan), Capt. Patterson (Meshe Kowhay), Capt. Beaver (who was of the turkey clan), Natcoming and Suwaunock (Chief Anderson’s son).

The whites in the Delaware Town area at this time were William Gilliss (who owned the trading post and also had one on the banks of Swan Creek near what is now Forsyth), Joseph Philibert (who worked for Gilliss a the James Fork Trading Post), William Myres (who clerked for Gilliss at the Swan Creek Trading Post), James and  Phoebe Pool (he was the government-paid blacksmith for the Delawares), Richard Graham (Indian Agent), John Campbell (Indian sub-agent), William Marshall (a competing trader who also built a crude mill on the Finley River near its mouth), James Wilson (competing trader who was located on the banks of the creek that would come to bear his name) and Solomon Yokum )who was ordered off the reservation by Campbell for selling whiskey to the Delawares).

There were also several slaves belonging to Gilliss who served as cooks and cheese makers. In addition, Baptiste Peoria, who was part Indian and part African, served as an interpreter and guide for Gilliss.

William Gilliss, the most successful of the traders, lived in a double-pen, dog-trot log house at Delaware town. Twice a year he’d dispatch Philibert and a helper to drive two wagons to the town of Ste. Genevieve on the Mississippi River to pick up supplies. It would take them 15 days to get there and much longer to return loaded down with trade goods. 

The Delawares used their annual annuity from the government, paid in silver (one theory has it that Solomon Yokum, after being kicked off the reservation, melted down this silver specie to form his own Yokum dollars in order to hide the fact that he was still selling whiskey to the Indians) to purchase trade goods. 
By the time they had come to Delaware Town, they had adopted many of the European ways of living, In addition to breechcloths, they wore white men’s clothing, used metal tools an d hunted with rifles. While some lived in the traditional rounded lodges made from tree limbs, brush, cedar boughs and animal hides, others resided in log cabins, with a dirt floor and a hole in the of to allow smoke from the cook-fire to escape.

William Gilliss followed the Delawares to Kansas after they signed the 1829 James Fork Treaty that removed them even further west. Their new lands were situated near the Missouri River, Gilliss became a wealthy man and was one of the founders of Kansas City. 
By the end of 1830, the Delawares had left southwest Missouri. Looking at a map drawn by surveyor John C. Sullivan in 1824, it appears that the Delaware lands (stretching 70 miles east to west and e44 miles north to south) covered most of Christian County, as well as Stone and a portion of Taney, Barry, and Lawrence counties. During its heyday, the Delaware Town settlement was the place of importance in the Missouri Ozarks…

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